24 Feb - 28 Feb 2011 Kandy

Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
The Hotel +94812235585 kandycenterin@gmail.com
Adequate twin room for LKR 1,500.- or US$ 13.50 per night.
The Olde Empire Hotel +94812224284
Nostalgic twin room with a great communal balcony for only LKR 890.- or US$ 8.- per night.







Support this blog, click below and shop at:
Click below for an interactive road map of The Hotel in Kandy and for directions:
Click below for an interactive road map of The Olde Empire Hotel in Kandy, which we would recommend, and for directions:

Exploring busy and noisy Kandy with its distinctively Kandyan style of architecture, getting infected with the typically Sri Lankan nosiness and, as a result, learning (i) that Buddha’s tooth (which is kept and safeguarded inside the famous Temple of the Sacred Tooth, admission for foreigners: US$ 10.- per person), the traditional symbol of Sinhalese sovereignty and an object of supreme devotion for many Sri Lankans, is at least three inches long, unlike any human tooth ever known, (ii) that Kandy’s Maligawa Tusker, the male elephant which has to carry Buddha’s tooth during the Esala Perahera, must fulfil very distinctive physical requirements (all seven parts of his body, the four legs, trunk, penis and tail, must touch the ground when he stands upright), and (iii) that already Robert Knox in 1660 CE, a British traveller, observed about the proud, aristocratic Kandyans: “They make no account nor conscience of lying, neither it is any shame or disgrace to them, if they be catched in telling lies; it is so customary.”



Hiking around Kandy and visiting three 14th-century CE Kandyan village temples: (i) the rustic little Embekke Temple aka Embekka Devalaya (admission for foreigners: LKR 150.- per person), dedicated to Kataragama, famous for its fine pavilion with its intricately decorated wooden pillars (a marvellously carved assortment of peacocks, entwined swans, dragons, dancers and horsemen), (ii) the Lankathilake Temple (admission for foreigners: LKR 200.- per person), an imposingly solid-looking structure built on a huge rock outcrop, founded in 1344 CE, with its magically atmospheric shrine, and (iii) the Gadaladeniya Temple with its pronounced South Indian appearance - an excellent foretaste for our upcoming trip to Tamil Nadu.



Passing successfully the last hurdle in the bureaucratic steeplechase of purchasing our Indian tourist visas, which was preceded by the following: (i) queuing up and applying for the right forms and meta-forms at the outsourced India Visa Application Centre, (ii) queuing up and supplying two pictures each plus numerous passport copies, filling in oodles of irrelevant details [in capital letters with black ink] from our previous [!] passports and other nonsensical information [e.g. father’s birthday, own home address, donor’s address] and paying in cash the non-refundable visa fee plus service fee (LKR 5,244.- or US$ 47.25 per person), (iii) overcoming the secretary of and filing complaints with the good-natured visa officer of the Assistant High Commission of India, (iv) bridging the obvious communication gap between the Assistant High Commission and the disappointingly performing India Visa Application Centre VFS Global, (v) queuing up and handing in our passports ten days, seven personal visits and a dozen of phone calls/emails after the actual application, and eventually, picking up our (maltreated) passports with a valid 126-day double-entry tourist visa for the Republic of India, touted as the world’s largest democracy but probably also the world’s largest bureaucracy; namaste Incredible India, here we come!



Taking the Ravindu Travels express bus from Kandy to Negombo (LKR 111.- or exactly US$ 1.- per person for the 3-hr long, very scenic ride) and thereafter the S.L.T.B. bus no. 905 from Negombo’s bus station to our beach hotel north of Negombo proper for LKR 12.- per person.


Click below for a summary of this year's travels:

Click below and see more Konni & Matt Pictures:


Recommended books - click below for your order from Germany

For your order from the United States click here
For your order from Canada click here
For your order from the United Kingdom click here

17 Feb - 24 Feb 2011 Madiha





South Asia
Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
Matara
Madiha/Polhena
Very nice double room (no. 6), 10 m from the high-water mark, with private sea-view balcony and internet, for only LKR 1,500.- or US$ 13.70 per night.

Click below for an interactive road map of the Beach Inns Holiday Resort in Madiha, which we would highly recommend, and for directions:

Click below for today’s special deals:


Enjoying great downtime in our excellent family hotel, catching up with some admin work (travel blog and photos), relaxing on the beach, socialising with our local and international friends in the village … and sadly having our paradise’s phoney peace interrupted when at night we had to show an Olive Ridley sea turtle (Lepidochelys olivaceathe way back into the mighty ocean after she had gotten lost in the hotel’s backyard on her egg-laying mission; about 150 years of human technology against millions of years of animal instinct - guess which system will eventually survive, at last.



Becoming seasoned connoisseurs of the Sri Lankan staple Rice‘n Curry (per generous helping: LKR 80.- to 120.-), available either from one of the fixed-price lunch buffets at any local “hotel” (the misleading name for the simple restaurants) or pre-packed for take-away as “lunch packets” from bake shops, grocers and street vendors throughout the country, and learning to pick up the subtle distinctions of its multitude of flavours which are uniquely composed of spices such as chilli, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, rampe (pandanus leaves), curry leaves, mustard, tamarind, fenugreek, garlic, coconut milk, dried fish and sambol; our favourite neighbourhood suppliers for vegetarian Rice ‘n Curry: no.1: Walgama Bake House and Bake Shop (LKR 95.-), no. 2: A.B. Chamly's Cathu Madhu Restaurant (LKR 100.-), no. 3: Ambasewana Bakery (LKR 90.-).



Bidding farewell to our wonderful host family at the Beach Inns Holiday Resort (many thanks for the most delicious farewell dinner), taking one of these red S.L.T.B. (Sri Lanka Transport Board) rust buckets from Walgama to Galle for only LKR 45.- per person and thereafter boarding a convenient direct S.L.T.B. bus to Kandy (for only LKR 207.- or US$ 1.90 per person for the 7-hr long ride) which was driven by a lunatic driver who literally raced against all other busses (and who scraped a victory against them), at first on the narrow, scenic coastal road to Colombo and later uphill on the picturesque mountain road, without crash barriers, to Kandy, one of the marvels of Victorian engineering in Sri Lanka.



Click below for a summary of this year's travels

Click below and see more Konni & Matt Pictures


Recommended books - click below for your order from the United States

For your order from Germany click here
For your order from Canada click here
For your order from the United Kingdom click here

16 Feb - 17 Feb 2011 Colombo

Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
Colombo
Hotel Nippon +94112431887
Spacious double room with fan for LKR 2,250.- or US$ 20.30 per night.

Click below for an interactive road map of the Hotel Nippon in Colombo and for directions:


Click below for today’s special deals:



Witnessing another masterpiece of human cruelty against animals when leg-shackled elephants (with visible chafe marks on their legs and with sad, anxious eyes) trudged through Colombo’s roads around Beira Lake during the annual Nawam Maha Perahera, a patriotic, all-pomp-and-pageantry procession of rather lacklustre traditional dancers and musicians which was (i) tightly controlled by a shocking and crude demonstration of the state’s all-present police/military power, (ii) grovellingly applauded by elderly Western bigots, all clad politically correct in fancy white robes, from their expensive VIP stands, and (iii) zealously blessed by the hard-line orange-clad weasels of the omnipresent Buddhist clergy, the vanguard of Sinhalese nationalism.



Taking a crowded commuter train in third class from the Kompannavidiya Railway Station to Colombo Fort (LKR 10.- per person), thereafter a local train in second class, sharing the compartment with a resourceful family of Malay origin who has lived in Sri Lanka for six generations, from Colombo along the most beautiful beaches to Galle (LKR 180.- per person) and, eventually, surviving another wild ride in one of the notorious Sri Lanka Transport Board buses to Walgama for LKR 45.- per person.


Click below for a summary of this year's travels

Click below and see more Konni & Matt Pictures
Photos 2010-14 Sri Lanka I
Photos 2011-01 Sri Lanka II


Recommended books - click below for your order from the United States

For your order from Germany click here
For your order from Canada click here
For your order from the United Kingdom click here

14 Feb - 16 Feb 2011 Kandy

Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
Star Light Guest House +94812233573
Adequate twin room for LKR 1,500.- or US$ 13.50 per night.

Click below for an interactive road map of the Star Light Guest House in Kandy and for directions:


Support this blog, click below and shop at:


Strolling through stylish Kandy, the proud bastion of an independent Sinhalese tradition and an important production line of the booming tourist industry, and listening to those peculiar encounters between hordes of Western tour groups (features: mostly frowning, visibly under stress, overweight and ugly, dressed like clowns on holiday in wonderland) and troupes of local touts and wannabe guides (features: mostly smiling, determined and focused, fit and handsome, smart-casually dressed): “How? Where are you going? - What country? - Only local price; last price. - No, not cheating. - What to do?”

Escaping from the city and visiting the famous Royal Botanic Gardens of Sri Lanka at Peradeniya (admission for foreigners: US$ 10.- per person), covering almost 150 acres and stuffed, thanks to a succession of British gardeners, with a bewildering variety of local and foreign tree and plant species (which are nowadays maintained by Sinhalese garden workers who make about LKR 15,000.- or US$ 135.- per month).



Applying for two of the coveted 6-month multiple-entry tourist visas for the Republic of India at the bureaucratic and unconcerned India Visa Application Centre VFS Global in Kandy and paying the non-refundable fee of LKR 5,244.- or US$ 47.25 per person.

Taking the clean and fast Arundi Tours Intercity Service air-con bus for LKR 230.- or US$ 2.10 per person for a fast ride from Kandy to Colombo Fort and thereafter the rugged local train in third class for only LKR 10.- from Colombo Fort to the conveniently located Kompannavidiya Railway Station, a 5 min walk from our next hotel, situated in a down-at-heel part of Colombo inside the characterful, colonnaded 1883 CE Manning’s Mansion.


Click below for a summary of this year's travels

Click below and see more Konni & Matt Pictures


Facing Sri Lanka
© Konni & Matt


Recommended books - click below for your order from Germany

For your order from the United States click here
For your order from Canada click here
For your order from the United Kingdom click here

12 Feb - 14 Feb 2011 Adam's Peak

Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
Delhouse
Achinika Holiday Inn +94716058485 achinikainn@sltnet.lk
Adequate double room with a convenient communal terrace for LKR 1,000.- or US$ 9.- per night.

Click below for an interactive road map of the Achinika Holiday Inn in Delhouse, which we would recommend, and for directions:

Support this blog, click below and shop at:


Ascending together with thousands of mostly local pilgrims the 2,243m-high, soaring summit of Adam’s Peak aka Sri Pada, simultaneously one of Sri Lanka’s most striking natural features and one of its most celebrated places of Buddhist pilgrimage (a miniature Matterhorn which stands head and shoulders above the surrounding hills, giving a wonderful impression of sheer altitude), reaching the huddle of religious buildings on the top right in time for dawn and, after our legs had turned to jelly, buying (Matt only) an ayurvedic foot massage (LKR 220.- or US$ 2.- for 20 min, including some sticky, smelly oil) from the Siddhalepa Medicinal House located at the bottom of Adam’s Peak, 4,800 steps later.



Taking a local bus for LKR 55.- or US$ 0.50 from Delhouse through beautiful tea country back to Hatton (noticing the weight of a powerful klaxon as a life-saving device for the local busses - if it is too late to brake, there is still always plenty of time to honk) and thereafter another bus for LKR 75.- or US$ 0.70 from Hatton to Kandy, the crucible of Sri Lanka’s Sinhalese cultural traditions.



Click below for a summary of this year's travels

Click below and see more Konni & Matt Pictures


Recommended gear - click below for your order from Canada
For your order from Germany click here
For your order from the United States click here
For your order from the United Kingdom click here