Showing posts with label Penang. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Penang. Show all posts

17 Feb - 20 Feb 2013 Georgetown



Southeast Asia
Flawed-Democratic Federation of Malaysia
Straits of Malacca
Penang Island aka Betelnut Island
Burmah Road 100
Small but perfectly adequate and clean standard double room (no. 528) with private bathroom for MYR 65.- or US$ 21.20 per night.
Free wifi from Starbucks next door. Indifferent hotel staff.
Beer: Non-halal 330-ml cans of cold and genuine Thai Chang Classic (c. 6.4 % alc./vol.) and Thai Skol (5.0 % alc./vol.) for a fair MYR 4.00 or US$ 1.30 per can from the well-connected perniagaan Teng Bee, the cheapest grocery store on Lebuh Chuliah (Georgetown’s humble answer to Bangkok’s Khao San Road).


Click below for an interactive road map of the Tune Hotel in Georgetown, which we would recommend, and for directions:










Exploring fascinating Georgetown, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and “…a real Chinatown, with more traditional Chinese flavour than Singapore or Hong Kong…” (at least according to the Lonely Planet), wandering around its winding streets and old temples and spending hour after hour in (i) secretive clan houses (our favourite: the 1906 CE Khoo Kongsi with its colourful mix of dragons, lamps and carvings), (ii) smoke-filled temples (our favourite: the 1728 CE Goddess of Mercy Temple aka Kuan Yin Teng with its resident beggars, healers and fortune tellers) and (iii) old shop houses (our favourites: the many Chinese pharmacies packed to the brim, stacked high in jars and bags, with interesting essentials of traditional Chinese medicine such as dried herbs, dried animal substances and dried human body parts).



Discovering Ernest Zacharevic’s amazing street art in Georgetown, his beautiful and evocative hand-painted murals mimicking life in the city.



Spying into the secrets of Chinese (albeit perfectly vegan) mock meat, made from soy-bean curd or wheat gluten, and testing this delicious junk food at three different Penangite vegetarian restaurants (Bahasa Melayu: restoran sayur-sayuran): (i) Ee Beng +6042629161, the people’s canteen, a huge self-service buffet with at least 30 vegan options, (ii) Luk Yea Yan +6042294766, rather up-market, its special dishes include vegetarian bah kut teh, tom yam laksa and nasi lemak, and (iii)  Tien Zin +6048263544 a hole-in-the-wall with a diversity of Chinese and Malay noodles, e.g. Hokkien Mee, Curry Mee, Loh Mee, Java Mee, Penang Assam Laksa minus the fish-based broth, always served with the chef’s own mock-meat creations, for the steal of MYR 3.50 or c. US$ 1.10 per bowl.



Walking the back lanes of Georgetown and discovering numerous quaint old workshops and ateliers such as (i) a joss-stick maker, (ii) a flower-garland maker, (iii) a signboard engraver, (iv) a beaded shoe maker and (v) a songkok maker, and, afterwards, listening to the peculiar sound of a taishogoto aka Nagoya harp (the name derives from the Taisho period, 1912 - 1926 CE, when the instrument first appeared) which consists of a long, hollow box with strings running its lengths and numbered typewriter-like keys which when depressed fret or shorten the strings to raise their pitch.



Taking Penang Rapid bus 401 (MYR 2.70 or US$ 0.90 per person), avoiding pickpockets and tendering the exact fare, from the Bus Terminal Komtar to Penang’s modern Bayan Lepas International Airport, flying hereafter uneventfully with Firefly (“Your Community Airline”) +60378454543 in an ATR 72-500 from Penang to Kuala Lumpur’s convenient and recently upgraded city airport at Subang aka Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport, for MYR 55.- or US$ 17.70 per person, all inclusive, catching a Rapid KL bus U81 (MYR 2.50 per person, no change) to Pasar Seni, thereafter a Rapid KL shuttlebus (MYR 2.00 per person, no change) from the Puduraya Bus Terminal to the state-of-the-art “TBS” (South Integrated Terminal aka Terminal Bersepadu Selatan) and, eventually, the arctic a/c (forewarned is forearmed) Transnasional express coach from Kuala Lumpur over a vast sea of oil-palm plantations, which stretches on to the horizon, to Mersing on West Malaysia's east coast (350 km, 6 hours, MYR 22.40 or US$ 7.20 per senior citizen), the departure point for ferries travelling between the mainland and Pulau Tioman.



Click below for more blog posts about Penang Island

Click below for a summary of this year's travels

Recommended books – click below for your Amazon order from the United Kingdom:
For Amazon schnaeppchens from Germany, please click here
For Amazon bargains from the United States, please click here
For Amazon bargains from Canada, please click here


From the 2013 Moral Travel Compass for Our Grand Children's Journey of Life:
It’s bad to buy new;
It’s good to swop pre-loved.
Keep your bearings!

01 Feb - 17 Feb 2013 Batu Ferringhi



Straits of Malacca
Penang Island aka Betelnut Island
Batu Ferringhi aka Foreigner's Rock
Baba Guesthouse +6048811686 babaguesthouse2000@yahoo.com
Airy and spacious budget double room (no. 15) with sea view, shared bathroom, fan and agricultural wifi for MYR 52.- or US$ 16.70 per night.
Helpful staff, good English. Family-run by a friendly and relaxed Baba-Nyonya clan (Straits-born Chinese).
Some regular noise from the loudspeakers of the village mosque next door, but no jihad.
Beer: Non-halal 500-ml cans of just cold enough Chang Draft (5 % alc./vol.) from Buddhist Thailand for a pricey and heavily taxed MYR 7.- or US$ 2.25 per can, not negotiable, from any of the Chinese neighbourhood joints along the main drag.


Click below for an interactive road map of the Baba Guesthouse in Batu Ferringhi, which we would recommend, and for directions:




 




Surviving a classical beach holiday on Batu Ferringhi’s picturesque and lively playground for both day-trippers from Penang and honey-moaners from the Middle East, a strip of reasonably clean sand which welcomes the gently rolling, but fairly turbid wavelets of the Strait of Malacca, thus having close encounters with beach-life’s four bitchy elements: (i) burning our skin in the sun’s fire, (ii) poisoning our bodies with polluted sea water, (iii) straining our ligaments in loose sand and (iv) parasailing into dizzy heights (Batu Ferringhi Watersport +6048993032, MYR 50.- or US$ 16.- per 15-min ride).

“The beach is not a place to work; to read, write or to think.” 



Hugging dipterocarps on the north-western tip of Penang, the Penang National Park aka Taman Negara Pulau Pinang (+6048813530, gazetted as a park in 1980 CE, free entrance), hiking via the clean and reasonably idyllic Monkey Beach to Muka Head Lighthouse (Fl.W10s242m25M) and thereafter hitching a boat ride back to kampung Teluk Bahang with relaxed newly-weds from Saudi Arabia.



Counting the vast number of red lanterns (which illuminate the temple during the festive season since red represents life) and yellow candles (which are lit in order to honour the ancestors since gold symbolises prosperity) at Kek Lok Si Temple +6048283317 in Air Itam, the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia.



Preparing for the upcoming Chinese New Year, the most important of the traditional Chinese holidays, and learning that flowers and plants with auspicious names are important decorative items during the spring festival: (i) lime aka kum quat for good fortune, (ii) ornamental pineapples for abundance, (iii) pussy willow for prosperity and wealth, (iv) chrysanthemums for cheerfulness and (v) lucky bamboo aka kun yan bamboo for simplicity and humility.



Joining Penang’s boisterous multi-racial crowds and celebrating with gusto the Chinese New Year of the snake by (i) detonating heavy-calibered firecrackers to breaking point, (ii) burning josspaper until we got red watery eyes as if we had smoked weed, (iii) watching (single to octuple) lion-dance performances till the cow comes home, (iv) enduring the booming bangs from at least 888 prosperity drums and (v) eventually practising calligraphy in red and gold - 恭禧發財, which means "respectfully wishing joy" (gong xi: 恭禧) and "becoming rich" or "making money" (fa cai: 發財).



Matt: Applying (with two identical photos and one copy of my passport) for a single-entry tourist visa for Thailand (valid for a stay up to 60 days, “employment prohibited”) at Penang’s pragmatical Royal Thai Consulate-general +6042268029 and getting it issued, uneventfully and within 6 hours, for a rather steep MYR 110.- or US$ 35.50 in cash.



Dragging ourselves away from this lazy two-week beach holiday at Foreigner's Rock, bidding adieu to Jan, our Aussie friend, practical philosopher and successful book author from Create Life Changes, and taking Penang Rapid bus 101 via the Floating Mosque back to metropolitan Georgetown (MYR 2.70 or US$ 0.90) in order to metamorphose back from vagabondish beach bums into civilised city dwellers, lah.




Recommended books - click below for your Amazon order from the United States:
 
For Amazon schnaeppchens from Germany, please click here
For Amazon bargains from Canada, please click here
For Amazon bargains from the United Kingdom, please click here


From the 2013 Moral Travel Compass for Our Grand Children's Journey of Life:
It’s bad to purchase global food brands;
It’s good to buy from the local farmers market.
Keep your bearings!

28 Jan - 04 Feb 2010 Penang


Penang Island aka Betelnut Island
Clean and adequate standard double room for only MYR 35.- or US$ 9.90 per night - a steal. Enthusiastic and more than helpful young staff.
Wifi for MYR 12.- per 24 hours.


Click below for an interactive road map of the Penang Tune Hotel in Georgetown, which we would highly recommend, and for directions:
N 05° 25.16' E 100° 19.63'



 





Meeting up with our Penangite/Canadian Baba-Nyonya friends Mun & Chuah, exploring together the bustling, predominantly Malaysian Chinese city of Georgetown (which combines the best of the East and the West, ranked 8th in ECA International's Most Livable and Workable Cities in Asia) between the Esplanade and Penang Hill and always having “time for a Tiger” from Singapore, acclaimed the official beer for the upcoming Chinese Year of the Tiger.
"'East? They wouldn’t know the bloody East if they saw it. Not if you was to hand it to them on a plate would they know it was the East. That’s where the East is, there.' He waved his hand wildly into the black night. 'Out there, west. You wasn’t there, so you wouldn’t know. Now I was...'" 
  
Celebrating together with local Hindu crowds Georgetown's version of the masochistic Thaipusam Festival (at it's heart, a pilgrimage procession which takes place to bring the statue of Lord Muruga, who represents virtue, youth and power, on a silver chariot, led by more then 60 kavadis adorned with peacock feathers, from Little India to the Nattukottai Chettiars' Temple atop the hill of Waterfall Road), thus (i) smashing coconuts on the road in front of the chariot, (ii) empathising with the Hindu devotees who go through the physical endurance of being skewered and pierced on the back and front of their bodies by hooks with miniature urns as an act of penance and (iii) watching the brisk trading (alms for blessings and cash for dye powder, respectively) between the paying devotees and the money-taking priest-crews who man the bull-drawn chariot: after all, religion is a lucrative business model, everywhere in this world.



Applying with two identical photos from each of us and one copy of each passport for two single-entry tourist visas for Thailand (valid for a stay up to 60 days, “employment prohibited”) at the relaxed and friendly Royal Thai Consulate-general +6042268029 in Penang and getting them issued within 6 hours, free of any charge and no hassle.



 
Indulging in exotic Nyonya dishes, a fusion of Malay cuisine with Chinese (Hokkien) cooking style, which are distinguished by their sophisticated use of spices and herbs such as daun kesum (kesum leaves aka Vietnamese coriander), serai (lemon grass) and bunga kantan (wild ginger) thus establishing our own (vegetarian/pescetarian) Top Five of Penang food: (i) Penang assam laksa (thick rice noodles served in a spicy and sour fish broth made with mackerel flakes, tamarind aka assam, lemongrass, chillies, galangal, thinly-sliced onions, prawn paste and finely-shredded bunga kantan [ginger flower]); (ii) char koay teow (flat white rice noodles stir-fried in a large wok over a roaring open fire together with prawns, cockles, eggs, soy sauce, chillies, bean sprouts and chives); (iii) pork-free Hokkien mee (fragrant noodle soup of shrimp paste and dried prawns, served with fresh prawns, fish cakes, leafy greens, squids, vegetables, crispy deep-fried shallots, spring onions, fresh lime, chillies, light soy sauce and a bit of sambal on the side), (iv) oh chien (fried egg omelette with fresh and succulent oysters, garnished with chopped spring onions and served with sweet and sour chili sauce); (v) nasi kandar (steamed white rice served with a variety of thick, aromatic [fish] curries, vegetables and side dishes), our favourite: Al-Hass Café on Jalan Burmah opposite our hotel.



Taking the Rapid Penang +6042381212 city bus no. 401 (MYR 2.70 per person) from Georgtown’s Komtar Bus Terminal to the Bayan Lepas International Airport and flying uneventfully with Air Asia (“Now Everyone Can Fly”) in a red Airbus A 320-200 to Kuala Lumpur's KLIA-LCCT for all inclusive MYR 64.- or US$ 18.- per person, one way.



Click below for more blog posts about Penang
17 Feb - 20 Feb 2013 Georgetown
01 Feb - 17 Feb 2013 Batu Ferringhi
09 May - 12 May 2009 Georgetown

Click below for a summary of this year's travels

Visit the Konni & Matt Online Albums and order high-res travel photos
Konni & Matt Travel Photos
 

Facing Penang
© Konni & Matt


Recommended books - click below for your Amazon order from Germany:

For Amazon bargains from the United States, please click here
For Amazon bargains from Canada, please click here
For Amazon bargains from the United Kingdom, please click here