29 Oct - 31 Dec 2002 Monastir

Central Mediterranean
Republic of Tunisia
Gulf of Hammamet
Monastir
Marina Cape Monastir +21673462305
SY "Kamu II" with her stern to the jetty and two permanent bow moorings.
TD 243.000 (€ 162.-) per month.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our marina berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Crossing the Strait of Sicilia and logging the sailed distance of about 160 nm between Sicily and Tunisia in over 2 days (an average daily run of about 75 nm) and learning that our ketch SY “Kamu II” could keep herself on a straight course without helmsman or autopilot for hours if the sails were properly trimmed.

Clearing polite and cooperative Tunisian customs and immigration, both based inside the marina, which worked like a charm: the immigration officer did not ask for any clearance paper from the last port and gave both of us, carrying German books, a tourist visa on arrival, free of charge, valid for three months, and the customs officer stepped onto our ship in his black dress regimentals wearing boots (thus without him loosing face) plus a pair of transparent shower caps over them to protect our new teak deck (thus without causing us to loose face) and helped us to fill in some nonsensical inventory lists.

Wintering in sunny Tunisia and having a regular Sunday afternoon BBQ with a group of wintering yotties from many different countries, especially with Karin and Robert (SY “Huibuh”) from Germany, Angelika and Gerd (SY “Ariane”) from Germany, Joseph and Elfi (SY “Papillion”) from Germany, June (SY “Bella Breeze”) from the UK, Therese and Toni (SY “Nelea”) from Switzerland, Pasquale and Jean-Luc (SY “Ali Baba”) from France, the young Germans Britta and Thorsten (SY “Little Albatross”) from London, Baerbel and Michael (SY “Beluga”) from Germany, Glenda and Derek (SY “Scotty”) from Australia, Regina and Jaap (SY “Gandalf) from the Netherlands, Roberta and Fabio (SY “Han Mat”) from Italy, Birgit and Karl-Heinz (SY “Isis”) from Germany/Switzerland, Joy and Chris (SY “Liahona”) from England, Anna and Richard with his Contest 46 from Australia/UK, Hanna and Jochen (SY “Lycka”) from Germany, Doris and Wilfried (SY “Panta Rhei”) from Germany, Maggie and Tony (SY “Ganymede”) from the UK, Sara and Doug (SY “Mindemoya”) from the USA, Stella and Andy (SY “Pebbles”) from the UK and Patricia and Jean-Claude (SY “Tololea”) from France.

Konni: Reimbursing Matt’s accrued bonus air miles from the Qualiflyer Travelclub and flying with Swiss International Air Lines from Tunis (Tunis Carthage International Airport) via Zurich to Berlin (Berlin-Tegel Airport) and back, visiting her family in Germany, buying a new 16 nm FURUNO 1620 yacht radar (with a bulky radome) for our ship SY “Kamu II” in transit and convincing the Tunisian customs officers at Tunis airport in tough and hours-long negotiations that the radar’s intended use was not to overthrough the government of Tunisia.

Taking a Tunisian louage (long-distance minibus taxi) from Monastir to Douz (a major palm oasis and a large producer of diglat noor dates) and visiting the International Festival of the Sahara, a four-day celebration of traditional desert culture which features traditional music and dancing, poetry readings, camel wrestling, and racing of horses and salugis (a type of dog, native to the North African desert) and watching the international dromedary marathon in which even camels from Germany (“deutsche Kamele”), amongst others, participated.

Exploring the Tunisian Sahara (the Grand Erg Oriental) S of Zaafrane (the gateway to the Sahara) in central Tunisia on the back of two dromedaries (Camelus dromedarius) for two days at a lurching 7 km/h thus trekking at “camel speed” over the endless dunes of the Sahara through the scorching sun by day, having dinner around an open fire (made from camel dung) at night and spending the freezing night in basic Bedouin tents under goat-hair blankets.

Matt: Hiring a chauffeur-driven Toyota 4x4 Land Cruiser 80 series for US$ 50.- per day, crossing the Chott el-Djerid (a large endorheic salt lake and the largest salt pan of the Sahara with a surface area of over 7,000 sqkm, as well as being a popular filming location, e.g. for “Star Wars”) and visiting the remote mountain oases of Chebika (the Castle of the Sun), Tamerza (with two waterfalls) and Mides (the Village of the Canon) near the border between Tunisia and Algeria.

Reflecting on the many learning opportunities that were subtly hidden in this year's total of about 1,000 nm and preparing the ship and ourselves for the goals of the oncoming cruising year 2003 CE: the Adriatic and Venice.
here

26 Oct - 27 Oct 2002 Selinunte

Central Mediterranean
Italian Republic
Sicily
Sicilian Strait
Selinunte
SY "Kamu II" at anchor, right opposite the ruins.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 37° 34.86' E 012° 49.86'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Matt: Exploring the cliff-top ruins of Selinunte, one of the most important of the Greek colonies in Sicily, rambling over the ruins and looking in awe at the re-erected Temple of Hera, the undisputed star in this 19th/20th-century CE archaeological showcase.

Leaving Europe for Africa without clearing out at first light in the morning.

23 Oct - 26 Oct 2002 Marsala

Central Mediterranean
Italian Republic
Sicily
Sicilian Strait
Marsala
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Touring the historic cellars of the Donnafugata Winery +390923724200 in Marsala and tasting the genuine Marsala wine (Vergine e/o Soleras, aged at least five years), a fortified wine similar to port which originally was fortified with ethanol, to ensure that it would last long ocean voyages and whose invention is attributed to the English trader John Woodhouse who landed in 1773 CE at the port of Marsala and "discovered" the local wine produced in the region, which had been aged in wooden casks and tasted similar to Portuguese fortified wines then-popular in England.

Visiting the westernmost point of Sicily where Guiseppe Garibaldi and his One Thousand landed on 11 May 1860 CE, thus beginning his struggle for Italian independence (after he had married a Lombard noblewoman, Giuseppina Raimondi, on 24 January 1860 CE, whom he had left immediately after the wedding ceremony due to her infidelities).

18 Oct - 23 Oct 2002 Favignana

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Egadi Islands
Favignana Island
Favignana
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:
N 37° 55.85' E 012° 19.55'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Hiking on Favignana Island, learning about its history and visiting the bronze monument of Ignazio Florio (who had bought the Egadi Islands for two million lire in 1874 CE) and climbing 314-m high Monte Santa Caterina, the highest point on Favignana.

Taking the Siremar ferry from Favignana Island to Marettimo Island for € 4.- per person (one way), hiking on some very well marked hiking paths along the mountain ridge, enjoying great views onto the Mediterranean and being forced to doing a one-hour detour by a bloodthirsty, road-blocking Egadian bull thus just making the last ferry of the day in a wild downhill gallop.

Matt: Taking the hydrofoil from Favignana Island to Levanzo Island and crawling into the cave Grotta del Genovese to study some Palaeolithic wall paintings and Neolithic incised drawings.

16 Oct - 18 Oct 2002 Trapani

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Trapani
Yachting Club Lega Navale
SY "Kamu II" with her bow to the pier and with two permanent stern moorings.
€ 26.- per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our marina berth:
N 38° 00.83' E 012° 29.92'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Exploring the city of Trapani, founded by the Elymians to serve as the port of the nearby city of Erice (ancient Eryx), which overlooks it from Monte San Giuliano, and is still an important fishing port and the main gateway to the nearby Egadi Islands, and incidentally discovering brioche gelata (an oven-warm and crispy bread roll filled with Sicilian ice cream and quickly to be eaten on the spot).

Taking the local bus to the medieval hill town of Erice (about 750 m above sea level) and enjoying the marvellous views overlooking the city of Trapani, the low western coast towards Marsala, the dramatic Punta del Saraceno and Capo san Vito to the north-east, and the Egadi Islands on Sicily's north-western coast.

Provisioning for the next months which we were going to spend in unknown Tunisia at the well-stocked Conad supermarket in Trapani which excelled in its great delivery service.

15 Oct - 16 Oct 2002 Marettimo

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Egadi Islands
Marettimo Island
Cala Manione
SY "Kamu II" at anchor, below the ruins of the Moorish castle.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Coping with an unexpected wind shift which turned our “sheltered” anchorage below the ruins of a Moorish castle into a dangerous lee-shore and leaving in a hurry at midnight.

14 Oct - 15 Oct 2002 Levanzo

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Egadi Islands
Levanzo Island
Cala Fredda
SY "Kamu II" at anchor.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 37° 59.30' E 012° 20.78'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

08 Oct - 14 Oct 2002 S. Vito lo Capo

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
San Vito lo Capo
Town Marina
SY "Kamu II" with her stern to the pontoon.
€ 12.- per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our marina berth:
N 38° 10.83' E 012° 43.99'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Waiting for an improvement of the weather and spending some days on the pristine, unusual arc-shape beach of San Vito lo Capo right behind the town marina.

Exploring the town of San Vito lo Capo, famous for its couscous and strongly Arabic flavour and discovering the first examples of north-African architecture - cube-shaped white houses, clad in bougainvillea with flat roofs which double as rain catchers and for drying agricultural products.

Matt: Climbing the steep 425-m high Monte Cofano, the northernmost of a small mountain range, which has a large cross visible from the town marina below on its peak and looking around a quarrel where the famous Perlato marble of Sicily was mined, whose luminescence contrasts with the rough rocks.

06 Oct - 08 Oct 2002 Castellamare

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Castellamare del Golfo
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" at anchor, inside the harbour.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 38° 01.91' E 012° 52.81'

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Castellamare del Golfo
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside the N breakwater.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Socialising with a bunch of friendly and very hospitable German-Sicilians who invited us into their house in Alcama for a noisy dinner party with excellent pasta and great red wine.

03 Oct - 06 Oct 2002 Scopello

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Gulf of Castellamare
Scopello
SY "Kamu II" at anchor (trusting an old tuna anchor as permanent mooring anchor) off the old tuna fishery.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Exploring the old, ghostly and abandoned tuna fishery (tonnara di Scopello) that ceased operations in the 1980s, surrounded by rows of rusting anchors and old machinery.

DM Konni: Scubadiving with Cetaria Scopello Diving Centre +390924541177 and a gang of fellow diving beer-drinkers from the UK.

Visiting the ancient village of Scopello, climbing the red rock towers (faraglioni), relaxing over a few espressos and watching the days go by in this forlorn corner of rural Sicily.

Waking up at night to 35 knots of on-shore wind and realising that the old tuna anchor which we had used as mooring was dragging and that we were already only 20 m away from the rock cliffs with huge breaking waves, firing the diesel engine in an instant and motoring away from the cliffs with the old tuna anchor in tow for the first 50 m; so sorry, Vittorio and Elisa, that we changed the location of your mooring.

02 Oct - 03 Oct 2002 Cala Guidaloca

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Cala di Guidaloca
SY "Kamu II" at anchor at Cala di Guidaloca, 5 nm N of Castellamare del Golfo.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 38° 03.50' E 012° 50.70'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

21 Sep - 02 Oct 2002 Castellamare

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Castellamare del Golfo
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" at anchor inside the harbour.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 38° 01.91' E 012° 52.81'

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Castellamare del Golfo
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside the N breakwater.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Experiencing, at anchor inside the narrow town harbour of Castellamare del Golfo, rapidly changing katabatic winds from opposite directions: starting off with 45 knots from SW, changing only 3 hours later to 40 knots from NE, whilst SY "Kamu II" was swinging at the necessary minimum length of 50 m anchor chain around her anchor.

Being puzzled when we read in a newspaper that this town full of very friendly and welcoming people once was reckoned to have the highest number of murders per capita of all towns of Sicily and that the name “Castellamarese War” (from 1929 till 1931 fought by the Joe [“The Boss”] Masseria clan against the Salvatore Maranzano clan for the leadership of the Italian Mafia in New York City; Maranzano's faction won, and he briefly became capo di tutti capi ["boss of all bosses"], the undisputed leader of the entire mafia, but was soon assassinated by a faction of young upstarts led by Lucky Luciano) derived from this picturesque town.

Watching in the harbour how a big wine tanker was filled up with local wine, during day and night, from an endless supply of tanker trucks until her waterline was not visible any more.

Matt: Taking the local bus to Segesta, the political centre of the Elymian people who inhabited the W part of Sicily during the Bronze Age and Classical Antiquity, and visiting the unfinished, 5th-century BCE Doric Temple and the Greek Theatre, an incomparable combination of architectural elegance and wonderful natural setting.

18 Sep - 21 Sep 2002 Palermo

Mediterranean Sea
Tyrrhenian Sea
Italian Republic
Sicily
Palermo
SY "Kamu II" with her stern to the jetty and with one bow anchor in the mud.
€ 20.- per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:
N 38° 07.34' E 013° 22.34'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2002 Map

Leaving our ship SY "Kamu II" under the reliable protection of our friend Nino, a man of honour from the Palermo Yacht Club del Mediterraneo +39091581837, ignoring the grey and evil monsters of the Guardia di Finanza in the harbour right next to us and strolling along Via Roma and Corso Vittorio Emanuele as well as through the beautiful and belligerent, decayed and decadent, allegedly Mafia-owned heart of the inner city of Palermo.

Marvelling at the golden mosaics of the Cattedrale di Monreale and watching a very Sicilian wedding of a handsome bride-groom and a beautiful bride, accompanied by the beaming and happy members of both their families.

Provisioning at Palermo's colourful markets, and buying fresh fish at the La Vucciria market, trying to make sense of creative political graffiti, such as: "No coca cola, no israele. Solo la patria e archangelo Michele“, and relaxing under the shady trees in Garibaldi's garden.

Being invited to a somewhat confusing vernissage in a specialist bookstore for nautical books, sea charts, maritime novels and art and enjoying the excellent Sicilian white wine (free of charge), the extraverted and polite company and the exalted shoptalk until we could not take any of it any more.