29 Oct - 30 Oct 2003 Ak Ay Aikaterini

Mediterranean Sea
Northern Ionian Sea
Hellenic Republic of Greece
Corfu Island
W off Ak Ay Aikaterini
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 39° 48.60' E 019° 49.62'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Weathering at anchor (with 80 m of chain out) a 40-knot strong bora wind that was falling down on us from the nearby Albanian mountains.

29 Oct - 29 Oct 2003 Errikousa

Mediterranean Sea
Northern Ionian Sea
Hellenic Republic of
Greece
Errikousa Island
Errikousa
South Bay between Ak Katergo and Ak Stamoleka
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 39° 52.43' E 019° 35.33'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Logging the sailed distance of about 220 nm in 3 days (an average daily run of about 75 nm) between Dubrovnik and Errikousa Island and meeting a strong southeasterly gale with gusts of over 50 knots of wind and with 5-m high waves between Dubrovnik and Brindisi in the seemingly so peaceful Southern Adriatic. 
 
“I hate storms, but calms undermine my spirits.” 

26 Oct - 26 Oct 2003 Dubrovnik

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Dubrovnik
Gruz Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:

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2003 Map

Clearing Croatian customs and immigration (both free of charge, painless and fast), collecting a fluffy weather forecast from the met office and leaving the almost empty yacht harbour at Gruz at late afternoon for Corfu Island where we wanted to spend the upcoming winter.

25 Oct - 26 Oct 2003 Luka Zaton

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Luka Zaton
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 42° 42.01' E 018° 02.63'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

24 Oct - 25 Oct 2003 Trstenik

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Pelješac
Luka Trstenik
Trstenik Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:
N 42° 54.95' E 017° 23.98'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

23 Oct - 24 Oct 2003 Scedro Island

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Scedro Island
Luka Lovisce
SY "Kamu II" at anchor.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 43° 05.53' E 016° 41.96'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

19 Oct - 23 Oct 2003 Luka Milna

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Brac Island
Luka Milna
ACI Marina Milna +38551271288
SY "Kamu II" with her stern to the jetty.
KN 268.- (€ 36.-) per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our marina berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Enjoying the traditional 17th-century CE fishing village of Milna which is set at the foot of a deep natural harbour that was used by Emperor Diocletian on his way to Split.

Taking the local bus to Supetar and exploring her many Austro-Hungarian-style buildings around the port which have lent the town a distinctive easy-going charm.

18 Oct - 19 Oct 2003 Solta Island

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Solta Island
Uvala Sesula
SY "Kamu II" stern-to at first, later alongside a shaky wooden jetty.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

DM Konni: Scubadiving and recovering our very heavy ground tackle (weight of both the 45-pound CQR anchor and the full length of our almost brand-new 85 m half-inch anchor chain: c. 380 kg) from 13 m of water depth in an elaborate procedure with the help of a long line and a genoa winch (operated by Matt), after we had accidentally lost the ground tackle during a failed “roman-catholic” anchoring manoeuvre due to an unsecured brake at the anchor windlass - what a schlepp!

17 Oct - 18 Oct 2003 Marina Kremik

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Primosten
Marina Kremik +38522570068
SY "Kamu II" with her stern to the jetty.
KN 166.- (€ 22.-) per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our marina berth:
N 43° 34.26' E 015° 56.43'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map


Refuelling with 180 litres of diesel fuel for KN 5.19 (€ 0.69) per litre from the convenient marina fuel berth.

16 Oct - 17 Oct 2003 Kornat Island

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Kornat Island
Kornati National Park
Uvala Lopatica (Gujak)
SY "Kamu II" at anchor.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 43° 47.24' E 015° 20.22'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

14 Oct - 16 Oct 2003 Vrulje

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Kornat Island
Kornati National Park
Vrulje
SY "Kamu II" tied to a National Park mooring buoy.
KN 100.- (€ 13.-) per two people for two nights.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 43° 48.59' E 015° 18.24'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Broadreaching in a stiff autumn breeze, as if in a slalom, through the maze of 147 (mostly uninhabited) Kornati Islands, islets and reefs which cover about 220 sqkm.

Anchoring off Ante’s konoba in Vrulje, indulging in great seafood, washing it down with local red wine and rakija and celebrating in the shallow water between the pub and the anchorage into the wee hours.

13 Oct - 14 Oct 2003 Uvala Tripuljak

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Dugi Otok Island
Telascica National Park
Uvala Tripuljak (Mir)
SY "Kamu II" tied to a National Park mooring buoy.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our mooring:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Circling (on two-heel drive) the landlocked saltwater lake Mir, a sunken karst depression which is fed by underground channels that lead through the limestone into the sea and marvelling at the steep cliffs which slope down more than 150 m to the Adriatic.

11 Oct - 13 Oct 2003 Uvala Telascica

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Dugi Otok Island
Telascica National Park
Uvala Telascica
SY "Kamu II" tied to a National Park mooring buoy, KN 80.- (€ 11.-) for two people for two nights.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our mooring:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Enjoying the scenic and beautiful karst landscapes of the Telascica National Park at late autumn when they looked as if they were located much further N and permanently howling a duet of one of our favourite songs: "Winteeer in Kanadaaa".

10 Oct - 11 Oct 2003 Iz

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Iz Island
Uvala Soline
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 44° 03.70' E 015° 04.56'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

09 Oct - 10 Oct 2003 Ist

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Skarda Island
Uvala Griparica
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 44° 16.69' E 014° 42.90

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Ist Island
Uvala Kosiraca
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:

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2003 Map

Moving SY “Kamu II” during the blackness of the night and leaving our anchorage at Uvala Griparica which had turned into a dangerous lee-shore after a sudden wind shift from NW to SE for the well-sheltered and better suited anchorage at Uvala Kosiraca, a bare 3 nm away.

06 Oct - 09 Oct 2003 Mali Losinj

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Mali Losinj Island
Mali Losinj
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" with her stern to the jetty.
KN 225.- (€ 30.-) per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Exploring the scenic town of Mali Losinj with its stately sea captain's houses and ornate villas lined up along the SE waterfront which bear witness for the once flourishing shipbuilding industry in the 18th and 19th centuries CE.

Matt: Hiking the Osorcica Ridge on Mali Losinj Island from the abandoned Franciscan monastery near the old fishing village of Nerezine via the Počivalice Pass, the 559-m high Sv. Mikul to the macchia-covered, 589-m high Televrina mountain, the highest peak on Losinj, and further via Pl. kuća "Sv. Gaudent", the Gredice Pass to Osor and later taking the local bus back from Osor to Mali Losinj town.

03 Oct - 06 Oct 2003 Uvala Liski

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Mali Losinj Island
Uvala Liski
SY "Kamu II" anchoring off.

Click below for a bird’s-eye view of our anchorage:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Meeting adverse conditions with gale-force winds from the NW and nevertheless comfortably sitting it out on a very long chain right in the middle of this large and sheltered bay.

02 Oct - 03 Oct 2003 Osor

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Cres Island
Osor
Town Harbour
SY "Kamu II" alongside at the S end of the canal which separates Cres from the island of Lošinj, first made in Roman times, revived in the 16th-century CE.
KN 106.- (€ 14.-) per night.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our harbour berth:

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map

Hiking extensively on Cres Island, one of the N islands in the Kvarner Gulf, picking up and taking along a sizable piece of limestone rock from the island which, according to the local belief, would protect us from all kind of poisonous snakes on our future travels since Cres Island is quite famous for the absence of this brood, even though they are common in other parts of the Kvarner area.

Strolling through the little town of Osor and listening to the locals about the interesting history of their town which until the 15th-century CE was a strong commercial, religious and political presence in the region, but in a sudden turn for the worse a combination of plague, malaria and new sea routes through the Adriatic eliminated the town's population with just 80 people remaining.

Meeting Croatian yotties Zelimir and Alexander (SY "Doga"), emptying together a bottle of their home-made “doctor-grade” travarica or herbal rakija (a hard liquor similar to grappa, made by distilling fermented fruits [grapes, plums, peaches, apricots, pears, apples, figs or quinces] up to an alcohol content of 60% and mixing the brew with herbs [e.g. mistletoe, myrrh], honey or nuts) and learning about the distinctive grades of travarica: (i) the highest quality (“doctor grade”) is always for the local doctor, (ii) the second-highest quality (“police grade”) is for the local cop, (iii) the third-highest quality is for your other enemies, (iv) the fourth-highest quality is four your friends, and (v) only the lowest quality is for one’s own consumption - živjeli.

01 Oct - 02 Oct 2003 Cres

Adriatic Sea
Republic of Croatia
Cres Island
Ustrinska Luka
SY "Kamu II" at anchor.

Click below for a bird's-eye view of our anchorage:
N 44° 45.01' E 014° 23.11'

Click here for a summary of this year's travels:
2003 Map