17 Feb - 05 Mar 2008 Goa

Indian Ocean
Arabian Sea
Republic of Incredible India, the world's biggest democrazy
Konkan Coast
Aguada Bay near Panjim
SY "Kamu II" at anchor, off Alex’s "Lovely Jubbly Shack” on Coco Beach and right opposite the mouth of the Siquerim River, at only 3 m of depth, on sandy mud with excellent holding.

Click below for an interactive satellite view of our safe anchorage:


Chilling out under the shady awnings of Alex’s "Lovely Jubbly Shack”, enjoying (i) his unselfish hospitality and helpful attitude towards anchoring yotties, (ii) his mother's excellent curries and (iii) his brother's ice-cold Kingfisher Beers, the stimulating company of his (mostly British) regular patrons and, last but not least, our first-ever glass of Alex's potent, home-distilled Goan cashew-nut spirit aka feni; down the hatch aka ciyarsa!

Exploring the Siquerim River with our dinghy and struggling on our way back against a strong tidal stream, a serous load test for our decrepit 5hp Mariner outboarder.

Fixing the upper swivel of our Bamar headsail roller-furler where a few of the worn-out Delrin balls in the ball bearing had been crushed, which was the reason for our having difficulties to furl in the headsail in a coastal breeze off the mouth of the Chapora River a few days before.

Meeting with old and new friends: German yotties/expats/travellers Elfi & Lothar (SY "Daria"), multitalented Italian/English yotties/musicians/entrepreneurs Laura & Johnny (SY “Freebird”) and the very helpful perpetual travellers Angie & Ivan from planet Earth.

Strolling through Old Goa which had been conquered, after the landing of Vasco da Gama at Calicut in 1498 CE, by the Portuguese governor Alfonso de Albuquerque by defeating Ismail Adil Shah (the Sultan of Bijapur) in 1510 CE and where the Franciscans, Jesuits, Dominicans, Augustinians, CarmelitesTheatines and a few more of those unselfish Christian orders had erected many sumptuous chapels, churches, convents, monasteries and a cathedral - all of unsurpassed architectural beauty, supposedly rivalling Lisbon in magnificence.

Touring the Goan hinterland by cheap public transport and visiting the Sahakari Spice Farm near Ponda, a tropical spice and betel-nut plantation spread over 130 acres with thick vegetation where we discovered a range of tropical fruit-bearing trees such as jackfruit, breadfruit, guava, papaya, mango, pineapple and sapota and where we tasted fresh cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, turmeric, ginger and vanilla.

Wandering along the back lanes of Panjim’s old Portuguese quarter, enjoying a few large Kingfisher Beers on one of the four tiny balconies of the famous Hotel Venite +918322425537 and losing ourselves in a Goa of another time.

Indulging in sweet bebinca (a delicious and traditional Goan dessert made from coconut milk, jaggery and eggs) and thirst-quenching nimbu pani (lime water - made with ice-cold lime juice mixed with salt, pepper, sugar and a salted plum, certainly an acquired taste).

Breezing together with friend and potato expert Ivan through the filthy and fly covered masses of stalls at the Mapusa Friday Market, ignoring the stinking open drains, the grazing goats and the begging lepers, buying (among other fruit and veggies) 20 kg of the finest potatoes (the last one of which was eaten on 14 July 2008 on Chagos) and 30 kg of red onions (the last one of which was eaten on 25 August 2008 during our passage from Gan to Phuket) which were balanced by a skinny, stork-legged native coolie, dressed in rags, on his head to Ivan’s car for a fee of INR 10.- or c. US$ 0.25.

Laundering: INR 5.- or US$ 0.12 per piece at Alex’s place.

Refuelling with 70 litres of diesel fuel for INR 34.30 or US$ 0.87 per litre with our own jerry cans and our dinghy from a nearby Chamundeshwari Petroleum Dealer in the village of Nerul.

Waggling, wiggling and wobbling our heads like a back-seat Garfield through the slightly shocked (after they had learned that SY “Kamu II” had neither cleared out of Bombay nor cleared in at Goa) but still friendly and lenient authorities in Panjim (harbour master: free of charge, customs: free of charge, immigration: a “voluntary donation” of INR 500.- or US$ 13.- to the local “police benevolent fund” was all they asked for) for an official and valid port-clearance paper for the Maldives.

Click below for more blog posts about sizeable catches
07 Jun - 15 Jul 2008 Chagos
02 Feb - 12 Feb 2008 Bombay
31 Aug - 02 Sep 2006 Marsa Thelemet

Click below for a summary of this year's travels

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