23 Sep - 26 Sep 2011 Poso

Republic of Indonesia
Central Sulawesi
Jalan Yos Sudarso
Losmen Lalanga Jaya +6285255449624 titien_mochtaris@yahoo.com
Clean, spacious and atmospheric double room, with a brand-new king-size bed, in a creaky stilt house, overlooking the sea, with attached bathroom (Indonesian mandi and Western toilet), a great terrace and a bottomless supply of kopi hitam (for Matt) and kopi susu (for Konni) for INR 125,000.- or US$ 14.50 per night.
Cap Tikus of Manado’s rocket-fuel grade available for INR 20,000.- or US$ 2.20 per litre of organically grown and lovingly distilled jungle hooch.

Click below for an interactive road map of the Losmen and Restoran Lalanga Jaya in Poso, which we would recommend, and for directions:

Relaxing on the creaky veranda of our atmospheric stilt-house hotel, the Losmen and Restoran Lalanga Jaya +6285255449624, built over the Gulf of Poso with superb views, and enjoying Taty’s and Titien’s fantastic hospitality.
“Too many people look at the hijab as though it has bizarre powers sewn into its microfibers. Powers that transform Muslim girls into UCOs (Unidentified Covered Objects), which turn Muslim girls from an 'us' to a 'them'.”

Exploring the coastal town of Poso, the main port and transportation hub for the northeastern coast of Central Sulawesi where enthusiastic shouts “Hello Misteeer” greet you at every turn and every time, visiting the nearby sandy beaches Imbo and Madale, located only a few kilometres east of town, noticing the many burned-out ruins of recent violent Muslim-Christian unrests (with well over 1,000 people killed on both sides and with many more displaced) and the tense presence of a peacekeeping police force, later cruising the turbid Poso River aka Sungai Poso upstream by means of an outrigger-trimaran, browsing thereafter through the central market and tasting five different exotic veggies from Sulawesi Tengah: (i) spicy jantung pisang (cooked banana flowers in a rich fish broth), (ii) bunga papaya (cooked papaya flowers, yellowish and very spicy), (iii) sayur nangka (cooked jackfruit in coconut cream), (iv) daun singkong (leaves of sweet potatoes) and (v) sayur terong (small white egg plants) - all this a vegetarian’s delight (...saya tidak makan daging).

Hiking Poso’s countryside south of town on a peaceful Sunday morning, exploring the Christianised villages of Lembomawo and Ranononucu, both renowned for their ebony carving, listening to the natives’ lovely voices during the Sunday morning service in quite a few different protestant churches and picnicking on hot lemang aka inuyu (glutinous rice, coconut milk and salt, and cooked in a hollowed bamboo stick lined with banana leaves in order to prevent the rice from sticking to the bamboo) and creamy fresh durian for dessert.

Taking a battered Mori Indah minibus +6285256199228 (65 km, 2 ½ hours, INR 20,000 or US$ 2.20 per person) from Poso’s Terminal Siwangi Lemba to Tentena, situated at the northern end of Indonesia’s third-largest lake, Lake Poso aka Danau Poso, and surrounded by clove-covered hills.

Click below for a summary of this year's travels
2011 Map Konni & Matt

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